Eric Block On Responsible Branding

In 2018, Everlane made an environmental commitment to eliminate all virgin plastic from its supply chain. For Earth Month in 2023, the brand celebrated its progress with a limited-edition collection of “ReTrack” styles. Photo: Courtesy of Everlane

By Maura Brannigan from Fashionista via Yahoo Life • Reposted: July 18, 2023

As the fashion industry becomes more and more implicated in the climate crisis, brands and retailers are beginning to take more and more responsibility for their roles in it.

“Responsibility” takes many forms, of course: There’s true accountability and transparency, and then there’s greenwashing, in which companies of all makes and models invest more in marketing themselves as being sustainable than in tangibly tackling their environmental impact. It’s no surprise that the former is easier — and, often, more appealing — than the latter. That’s because in fashion, the climate crisis is an issue of systemic proportions. But a growing number of businesses are making key C-suite hires to rebuild those systems from the inside.

Enter the chief sustainability officer, a role tasked with addressing an organization’s approach to climate responsibility and, theoretically, minimizing the company’s environmental impact. And the job description is being written in real time.

“One of the toughest challenges in my career was creating a job for myself that hadn’t existed before,” says Reformation‘s Chief Sustainability Officer and VP of Operations Kathleen Talbot, who first joined the brand in 2014. “Sustainability was a brand-new field. When I reached out to Reformation, I had no background in fashion or business, but I was committed to learning and passionate about helping define what sustainability would look like at Reformation in the long term.”

Now a decade in, Talbot has worked to define Reformation’s environmental practices, from investing in green building infrastructure to publishing the brand’s quarterly Sustainability Report. But every retailer is venturing into this work from its own unique starting block, which makes this position a particularly challenging one.

Ahead, we spoke with folks at companies like Everlane and Depop about what a chief sustainability officer (or an equivalent title) actually does, why their job matters and how to break into the field for yourself.

How to get your big break in sustainability

Full-time roles in the intersection of fashion and sustainability are few and far between, which means that the people who currently hold them are at the top of their proverbial game — and have the experience to show for it.

While this often takes the form of a stacked resume, those in the field have an innate fascination with and appreciation of this planet, as well as knowledge of how to do better by it.

“I joke that I fulfill every stereotype you may have of a Seattleite,” says Reformation’s Talbot. “I’ve been interested in sustainability my whole life and have been aware from an early age that our future is dependent on changing our relationship with the environment.”

Talbot began her career in academia, having gotten a master’s degree in sustainability before looking to find ways to bridge the concepts she was teaching with action. Consumer products presented a new challenge: “There’s such an enormous opportunity to make things differently.”

Like Talbot, Kirsten Blackburn entered the apparel space from the outside, having previously worked in the policymaking and nonprofit sectors. While building out the advocacy program at The Conservation Alliance, which funds and partners with grassroots organizations working to protect wild places across North America, she began to explore the ways in which consumer structures, like fashion brands, can most efficiently move policy.

“When businesses pool resources and advocate for causes they care about, it makes a difference, more so than other actors in the policymaking space,” says Blackburn, director of Keen‘s environmental and social justice program, Keen Effect. “Brands — particularly privately-held, family-run brands like Keen — have a really huge opportunity to affect change.”

Justine Porterie, Depop‘s director of sustainability and DEI, entered sustainability from the corporate side, supporting large investors and fast-moving consumer-goods companies, like Unilever and PwC, with their responsible investment and sustainability strategies. After nearly a decade, Porterie joined a social incubator that investigated business opportunities to turn waste into resources.

“I stumbled upon fashion and was shocked by how wasteful the industry is,” she says. “One truckload of clothes ending up in the landfill every second — that’s mad, and what triggered the idea for my own company.”

Called Outstand, Porterie’s business specialized in curating secondhand fashion as an answer to curbing apparel’s waste crisis. She connected with Maria Raga, Depop’s former CEO, not long after, and began consulting with the peer-to-peer social e-commerce platform to help create its first sustainability strategy. Porterie officially joined the team in February 2020, and the rest, as they say, is history.

What your day-to-day might look like

At the highest level, a director of sustainability is responsible for identifying new ways to incorporate a climate focus across a brand’s operations. It’s a broad and seemingly ambitious set of obligations, but experts explain that typically, their job descriptions can be broken down into various subsets, including (but not limited to) supply chain management, political advocacy and PR and marketing.

To execute this position effectively, these folks need to touch every part of the business. At Reformation, for example, Talbot leads a team of six sustainability professionals to rally the brand’s 1,000-person employee base around a high-level vision.

“I consider us to be catalysts,” she says. “How do you actually adopt material innovations and key transitions? Identify and build relationships with strategic suppliers for decarbonization programs? Reduce transportation emissions? This work happens through daily decisions and doing ‘business per usual’ in a different way, so we’re constantly facilitating and pushing the team forward.”

The role extends beyond internal communications, of course: To functionally move the needle, those actually consuming the product need to “buy in” to the mission, too. This is where annual “sustainability reports” come in: They have different names from brand to brand, but serve a similar purpose of outlining goals and, more crucially, holding themselves — and their progress — accountable as they work toward those goals.

Everlane’s Impact Report, for example, outlines a short- and long-term strategy around its sustainability objectives by establishing three pillars: 1) Keep Earth clean, 2) Keep Earth cool and 3) Do right by people. Katina Boutis, the brand’s director of sustainability, isn’t only responsible for defining these intentions —she’s also tasked with bringing them to life.

“Our success hinges on our customers being brought along this journey with us,” says Boutis. “A really big part of what we’re doing is translating the work we do behind the scenes, not just to our own internal teams, but also to our broader community that we’re trying to foster.”

The skills you’ll want to hone 

There are a number of opportunities in sustainable fashion, and Depop’s Porterie finds they all require a slightly different skillset. Working in the sustainability team at a fashion company is different than in, say, business development at a circular fashion company, or in the field at a regenerative cotton farm. But all three positions contribute to advancing the sustainability agenda in the industry. For the wider team at Depop, stakeholder management is particularly essential — after all, Porterie says, their aim is to make their agenda everyone’s agenda, so influence is critical.

“I always recommend that people keen to break into sustainable fashion start by interrogating what they’re good at and what excites them first,” she says. “Is it data, reporting, policy, technology, agriculture, marketing, design?”

Beyond individual interests, these positions also require a profound and technical understanding of sustainability and the wider fashion industry. For Kenneth Loo, co-founder and CEO of communications agency Chapter 2, this includes knowledge of the reengineering of production processes, recycling, certifications and various sustainable materials and chemicals.

“The narrative has shifted,” says Loo, whose Sustainability division at Chapter 2 supports clients in the clean-fashion spaces. “We no longer discuss mere factories, but technology platforms striving for innovation and ‘future-proofing’ that seek recognition from industry leaders.”

Finally, experts recommend a quality slightly less quantifiable, and that’s work ethic, fueled by an unrelenting growth mindset. At Keen, Blackburn describes this as a “fail-fast and fail-forward mentality,” to take the challenging, largely systemic problems you’ve been handed and come up with creative solutions to fix them.

“How can you take learnings from something that didn’t go well and celebrate it? Every day we’re uncovering something we don’t know, and that’s not unique to KEEN — that’s sustainability and climate writ large,” says Blackburn. “We’re hoping that we’re collectively doing more of the right things so that we’ll collectively make an impact in the future.”

What you’re working toward

“Sustainability is now non-negotiable in fashion, thankfully,” says Reformation’s Talbot. “Given our industry’s outsized environmental impact, there’s more customer demand to integrate sustainability into brand and product than ever. It follows that we’re seeing more career opportunities in the field open up, even compared to just five years ago.”

In short: We’re at a tipping point because people — and regulators — are no longer having it. Depop research shows that 60% of the platform’s users would rather buy from a company with environmental and social standards, and they’re not afraid to walk away or even publicly boycott those who do not meet their standards.

“Navigating increasing stakeholder expectations and changing legislative landscapes alongside business priorities is not an easy task,” says Porterie. “Until sustainability is entirely embedded in the DNA and ways of working of fashion companies, there will be space for sustainability professionals to keep on driving the agenda from within.”

These professionals have their work cut out for them, to be sure, but progress is afoot: Just last month, EU parliament voted to support a set of anti-fast-fashion recommendationsthat force the fashion industry to operate more sustainably. Then there’s New York’s Fashion Act, which aims to hold major clothing labels (i.e., those with over $100 million in global revenue) accountable for their environmental and social impacts.

“These policies are not something that I think anyone would’ve necessarily thought would be possible,” says Everlane’s Boutis. “Sustainability professionals are critical at any level in any organization, but I think there’s a special place in certain industries, like fashion, that have this ability to cut through cultural movements and spaces in that way.”

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